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Latin name: Eurydactylodes vieillardi
These individuals are unsexed, young adults. They are eating live small crickets and tropical fruit mash dusted with vitamin and calcium powder. They are both about 3” in length.
General info and temperament: These geckos have a special defense mechanism: when they feel threatened, they can excrete a foul-smelling fluid from their tails.
Habitat and lifestyle: They are native to the South Pacific Island of New Caledonia and make their home in the tropical rain forest on the island. They live in the under story of the rain forest and move between there and the canopy to hunt for insects and find ripe fruit. Though they are primarily a nocturnal species of gecko, they do like to come out to bask during the day.
Size and Lifespan: A small species of gecko, they reach a full size of 3"- 4.25" in length from nose to tail tip with females being larger than males. Their lifespan in human care isn't well-researched yet but it is estimated that they can live up to at least 10 years.
Quick care stats:
Temperatures: No more than 78 degrees Fahrenheit in the basking area, 70 degrees Fahrenheit on the cool end. Two thermometers should be used: one attached to a branch in the tank closest to where the heat lamp is and one resting on the floor of the tank.
Humidity: 40%-70% Mist 2x daily or have an automatic misting system.
Tank size: 10 gallons for babies/juveniles, 15+ gallons for adults.
Tank type: Square tank to large vertical tank. Allow space for lots of climbing structures.
Lighting: A dimmable heat lamp up to 75 watts will be needed for the basking area, especially during winter months. Thermostats are also helpful. 5.0 UVB lighting should be provided 12-14 hours a day to establish a natural day/night cycle.
Substrate and furniture: Soil or bark substrate 1"deep. Provide lots of climbing structures and false plants for hiding places. Habba-hut logs and cork bark rounds/half rounds on their sides make for ideal hiding places for most arboreal geckos.
A small water dish should be provided on the tank floor. This water dish should be rather shallow and have a small rock placed in the center so that your gecko can haul itself out if it accidentally slips into the dish.
Handling: Chameleon geckos tolerate gentle handling well and can be handled 2-3 times per week. Just watch for signs of stress and try to limit sessions to 10-15 minutes. If your gecko starts jumping, be very careful not to grab it’s tail while you’re trying to catch it. Doing this can cause your gecko to drop their tail.
When not to handle: When you first bring your gecko home or move it to a new enclosure, wait at least 3 days before handling it to give it a chance to settle in to the new environment.
Diet and feeding: Offer live crickets/ 3-4 times per week. Gage the number of insects your gecko will eat based on the number they leave behind. We recommend starting with an offer of 5 feeder insects and then adjusting from there. Fattier food items like worms can be offered 1x weekly for variety and as a treat! Always remove uneaten feeder insects if they have not been consumed after a day.
Tropical fruit such as mangoes, papaya and banana as well as berries can also be offered 2-3 times per week in between insect offers. All fruit should be peeled and mashed up for your gecko.
*All food items must be dusted with both vitamin and calcium powder prior to feeding.*
Food size: The feeder insect should be able to fit width-wise between your gecko’s eyes. Fruit mash amounts can be 1 tsp-1 Tbsp depending on whether your gecko is a baby or an adult.
Alternatively, many gecko keepers opt for pre-made gecko diets such as Pangea and Repashy. These are complete diets meant to fully replace natural food items and are also a good option.